| RIrover | -- 09-24-2014 @ 1:37 PM |
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I just had my 40 station wagon rehabed, engine rebuild...all purrs...but there is an incessent ticking in the fuel pump...if it is by passed by an electric one..the engine makes no noise..any suggestions..runs great...just a tick tick tick.. regards, David B Campbell
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| ken ct. | -- 09-24-2014 @ 4:01 PM |
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The pump should come off and gone through thourally probably a worn linkage problem OMO ken ct. Glass bowl pump is incorrect for a 40 but should work ok anyhow if it is a correct 47-48 pump. Their are 4 diff glass bowl pumps used on fords from 47-53 ! This message was edited by ken ct. on 9-24-14 @ 4:07 PM
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| RIrover | -- 09-24-2014 @ 4:39 PM |
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yes he has replaced the pump...replaced the rod...and I know the glass was not original for the 40...but this type was put on the car sometime in the 50's family owned car since new. thank you for your reply. regards, David B Campbell
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| TomO | -- 09-26-2014 @ 7:19 AM |
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Some of the Aitex pumps are noisy. There is nothing wrong with the pump,it just makes noise. If you are bothered by the noise, try replacing it with an Offenhauser pump from Speedway Motors or buy a rebuilt original 1940 pump. Tom
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| ken ct. | -- 09-26-2014 @ 8:20 AM |
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Depends where the replaced pump came from . Most brand new pumps sold today come from crummy China. Buy a rebuilt in USA "AC" pump. Correct all metal pumps for late 36 to 40 are $150 outrite plus ship. Close but not quite correct ones are $80 plus ship.outrite, these are including core chg. Phone me if you want more info !. 1-203-260-5945 cell. ken ct.
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| kubes40 | -- 09-26-2014 @ 8:29 AM |
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If you decide to go the "authentic" route be careful who you purchase from. I'd suggest Charlie Schwindler. He KNOWS what he his doing and is quite ethical and fair. Also, unlike others who advertise here, he doesn't simply paint the pumps and call them "show correct". He actually plates them so they ARE show correct. Plus, Charlie tests his pumps prior to shipping. I know, I know - what a concept huh? The other guy does not test them. And, from my personal experience three out of five of his were trash.
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| ken ct. | -- 09-26-2014 @ 9:37 AM |
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Hey mr know it all kube not everybody is as picky as you. ken ct. Ive built hundreds of pumps and your the only one whos complained about them. Ken ct.
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| kubes40 | -- 09-26-2014 @ 10:57 AM |
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Hey Ken, I did not mention your name and find it peculiar that you were so quick to respond to my post. Perhaps you'd like me to find the posts on the FordBarn wherein a number of folks chimed in about your work? All I did in my previous post is point a guy in a good direction to get quality work done. My advice? Give it a rest This message was edited by kubes40 on 9-26-14 @ 12:56 PM
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| ken ct. | -- 09-26-2014 @ 12:27 PM |
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No I put my name to it ,your talking about MY work. ken isidor [ken ct]
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| RIrover | -- 09-26-2014 @ 3:40 PM |
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thank you all for your help... regards, David B Campbell
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| ken ct. | -- 09-26-2014 @ 3:46 PM |
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Good luck in what ever you do with it David. ken ct.
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| supereal | -- 09-27-2014 @ 11:42 AM |
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An easy way to determine if the pump is making noise due to the rod is to pull the pump, pack the cup with heavy grease, and see if the noise lessens or goes away.If so, be certain that you have the correct push rod. Ford used half a dozen different lengths. There can be a big difference or a slight one. If you have an iron intake manifold, look for 8.872". If aluminum, an inch shorter. If a repro rod, who knows? If running the electric pump stops the noise, it is likely an internal problem with the fuel pump. Some have a revised linkage that is noisy.
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