Topic: Rear Spring, Tudor

kenburke	-- 08-24-2013 @ 12:59 PM
	Hi Mike, I am cleaning mine up (don't ask). It appears that there are no rear spring clamps having the protective sheath only visible. Also, on shackle clamps and the stamped "M" per the book. What is really required? Also what color should they be? Are they cad? Is there a good test to verify the shackles are OK. And anyhing else that could be recommended as to the spring? I'll save the front spring questions for another day. Thanks
kubes40	-- 08-24-2013 @ 7:20 PM
	Hi ya Ken, Okay, deal, I won't ask. On covered springs the riveted shackles were not necessary. The shackles in 1940 all had the "M". That was stamped in them to identify the length, 1 9/16" between centers. They were not cadmium plated. Rather, they were thinly painted a very low sheen black. The shackle plates are good as long as the holes are square and not worn out. They should fit snugly over the pin. The pins...if you can move them with ease, they are shot. Place a wrench on one end, if it moves fairly easy, replace it. The spring??? Well, I am strong advocate for replacing at minimum the main leaf with NOS or NORS. I have been fortunate to have a stock of NOS spring assemblies. Nothing can compare to restoring the correct ride height and the correct handling characteristics new springs afford. Ken, you know what must be done if you're cleaning up the old springs: make certain any wear at the ends of each leaf are ground smooth. Clean all old grease, rust, etc. away from each leaf. I disassemble NOS springs and clean all the old (dry) lubricant out and powder finish each leaf prior to reassembly. I would suggest you at least media blast each leaf and paint them. When reassembling, I use fifth wheel plate grease available at any farm supply store. A this coat will last a long time. If you really want to go crazy, let me know and maybe I can help you out. I have all of the tools and fixture required to replace those covers. Oh, please be careful when removing / installing the spring. Kindest regards to ya! Mike
kenburke	-- 08-30-2013 @ 4:55 PM
	Mike, Looks like new schankles are in order. So looking at the green book, is there a better source for a correct # for 5713. Is the O1A-5713 a requisite for the part I need. Probably rare, so the next option for a correct part? The letter "M", would have a photo of such in order to replicate? I will be begging later for a proper way to R&R the covers. As to the main leaf, would a mono one be OK for it.
kubes40	-- 08-30-2013 @ 5:33 PM
	Hi Ken, I have never seen anyone advertise NOS shackles. The repops are not quite correct. However, it seems to me that the shackles in the kits from Joblot are very close to authentic. You would need to fake a coined edge and stamp the "M". Both things, not too tough to do for ya... In regard to R&R the covers... you MUST be able to hold the spring FLAT to properly remove the covers. Installing (used) authentic covers is very difficult but can be done with a lot of patience. Still, the spring needs to be FLAT. I am not personally familiar with the "mono" leaf you mention so can't offer any advice as to whether or not it would work. You might try a few of the major vendors that sell NOS parts and see if they have a main leaf for you.
trjford8	-- 08-30-2013 @ 6:29 PM
	The mono leaf sold for streetrods would not be the correct main leaf to use. It is very thick in the center and would not mate up well with the other leafs of the spring. If you factory main leaf is useable you can take it to a spring shop and have it re-arched. This message was edited by trjford8 on 8-30-13 @ 6:30 PM
woodiewagon46	-- 08-31-2013 @ 9:32 AM
	If you are taking apart your spring let me offer a suggestion. I removed the center bolt from my spring and sanded between the leafs and then coated between them with Never-Sieze. This is the silver compound used on bolts to prevent rust and allow easy removal. It really improved the ride and allows the springs to move without any binding. Don't forget to clamp the spring before you remove the center bolt. The mono-leaf spring is way to thick but if you need a replacement you could try Eaton Spring, they make springs for street rods!
kubes40	-- 08-31-2013 @ 10:10 AM
	Ken, personally I have never cared for re-arcing springs. It is a temporary fix. The spring is sagging as the steel has become fatigued from decades of load being placed upon it as well as the countless oscillations. Re-arcing simply bends the spring back to (if the shop knows what they are doing) the authentic height. As the steel is so fatigued, it will soon go back to the height prior to bending. With all of the work involved to remove and replace the covers, not to mention the effort to clean and properly finish the individual leaves, I vote for doing it once and doing it correctly... find a NOS main leaf or NOS spring assembly.
kenburke	-- 09-02-2013 @ 11:50 AM
	Hi Folks, Thanks for the info. I think that pretty much covers most of it. The canvas material for the covers (its in the current book), I guess I'll find out when disassembly. Any info/suggestions on that? I'll try Joblot on the shackles. Mike thanks for the photo. Mike, I assume the original covers are important enough not to mess them up and are to be reused if at all possible? I hope everyone has had a nice three day weekend, especially you Mike. FYI, the Never Seize is great for the moving parts on the break assembly or any other similar area of metal to metal contact to reduce friction wear.
kubes40	-- 09-02-2013 @ 5:18 PM
	Hi Ken, The canvas is pretty much identical to "dick cloth" (yes, that's what it's called) available at any decent fabric store. About $5 a yard. Covers are not cheap so if you can save yours, do so. Dan in CA. makes beautiful covers of which I have installed numerous sets. If I recall correctly they are about $200 a pair (one spring). Worth it to me each & every time. If I can ever be of any help to you Ken, let me know. Kind regards, Mike

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