| robert993 | -- 05-20-2013 @ 6:39 AM |
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A new 3:54/1 ring and pinion and new rear bearings were recently installed on my 1940 Ford. After this work was done, I jacked up the rear of the car and ran it for 10 minutes, with the rear wheels spinning at an indicated 45 mph. Immediately after, the area around the pinion bearing was too hot to place my hand for more than 2 seconds. The mechanic had torqued the bearing to the correct 15 in/lb by his test. My question: Is it normal for a new bearing to get this hot?
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| supereal | -- 05-20-2013 @ 7:30 AM |
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No. Installing pinion bearings is a somewhat tricky operation. The only reasons bearings get hot is lack of lubrication and/or being set up too tight.
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| woodiewagon46 | -- 05-20-2013 @ 8:47 AM |
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If the bearing was too hot after only 10 minutes I can't imagine it lasting very long. Did you drive the car home from his shop? Why did you jack up the car in the first place, did the bearing make noise? How did your mechanic arrive at the 10 inch lbs. That nut is about an inch and a quarter isn't it. Perhaps he used a crowfoot wrench along with an inch pound torque wrench. Did he remember to install lubricant and what did he use? Did he set the proper "lash" for the ring and pinion? There are a lot of questions you need to ask your mechanic, sorry to say this but if the bearing got that hot it's probably already toast.
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| ford38v8 | -- 05-20-2013 @ 9:49 PM |
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I agree with the others. Have him redo the install, and this time, set up the pinion in a bench vise with the banjo pointing up. Spin the banjo fast as you can. The preload is correct when the banjo will make one complete turn only. This is the way the old timers and garage mechanics did it, forget ablout the KRW gauge, it doesn't work for beans with new bearings, readings all over the place. The vise method is quick and easy and accurate. Alan PS... That's with banjo and pinion only, mind you! No ring gear, no axle housings, duh! This message was edited by ford38v8 on 5-20-13 @ 9:51 PM
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| Stroker | -- 05-21-2013 @ 5:53 AM |
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All good advice! Many mechanics today are unfamiliar with the "straddle-mounted" pinion set-up, as most modern pinions require substantial bearing pre-load, which the early Ford does not. 38fordv8's method is about as simple and fool-proof as any. Like the others, I'd pop for a set of new "domestic" bearings though, as yours have been seriously tortured, and given the cost vs the tear-down time, I believe it would be prudent to replace them.
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| robert993 | -- 05-22-2013 @ 10:46 AM |
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I tested it in the driveway because I felt a slight drag when coasting, even after adjusting the brakes. Your posts have been very helpful. I have also talked to two people in my local club in Bristol, TN, and they set theirs up by feel, similar to front wheel bearings. One additional person I talked to put a 14" Crescent wrench on the pinion shaft, and set it so the wrench would drop slowly by itself from the 12 o'clock position. I clearly need to have this bearing fixed.
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| supereal | -- 05-22-2013 @ 12:08 PM |
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Be sure to replace both bearing cups when bearings are changed, if it wasn't done. this is common practice when replacing any tapered roller bearing so they match. it is also wise to replace the pinion pilot bearing, too. We use Alan's method, as the "inch/pound" adjustment is difficult to get correct. Perhaps the person who set it up used ft/lbs by mistake?
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