| dixiejak | -- 05-10-2012 @ 7:10 PM |
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I am replacing whats left of the front stablizer bar (ends have been sawed off) on my 1940 2 dr Std sedan, with a good Ebay used one, along with new swivel's and studs. Everything came off fairly easy except for the old stud which held on the old slotted swivel. I cannot get the stud out of the perch, and it appears to be very snug but it can be rotated. I assume there is a metal bushing with some rubber that is holding the thing in. I cannot beat it through the perch to get it out. I have soaked it with Krol oil, but it still will not come through at all. Does anyone have a trick or certain way these things are supposed to come out. The only thing I have not tried is heating it with a propane torch. Working under the car its almost impossible to get much of a swing with a hammer either. All suggestions are welcome. dixiejak
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| kubes40 | -- 05-11-2012 @ 6:40 AM |
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Hey Dixiejak, That stud is in there with a Morse taper. That is one snug fit as you have found. Heat may help a little but don't expect too much from a small propane tank. By the sounds of what you have remaining you'll have little choice but to hammer it out. It'll require a very direct hit so removing the backing plate will be necessary.
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| dixiejak | -- 05-11-2012 @ 9:50 AM |
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Hi Mike, Thanks very much for the advice on this swivel stud. I figured my next step was the backing plate and then eat a lot of Wheaties ! That is one tough set-up, and had I known, before I ruined the threads on one end of the stud, I would have left the old studs in, and simply installed the new swivels only, as it is surely snug and still very good after probably 72 years. With the backing plate off and with the outside nut and threads still good on the swivel stud, maybe after I back off and think this thing through some more, (I'm good at that when I'm resting under the car on a good pad LOL) then maybe I can come up with some kind of "puller" rig, but that won't be easy either. I have a question on what is being sold by Macs as a Stabilizer Bar Bushing #11A-3558. It is a bushing very close in overall size to the two main enclosed bushings on the original equipment bar, but, the bushing is a solid rubber bushing with a hole through the center, with one end of the hole being 1/2 " and the other end being 3/8", giving a sort of tapered appearance in the hole. However, there is no way, short of cutting this bushing in half, to get it to slide onto a stablizer bar, for enclosing with the original equipment setup. Have you run into this before and is there a way to use these bushings? Otherwise, the same "old main bushings" on the used bar I am installing, appear to be very strong and have only outside minor appearances of crystalizing or deteriotation of the exposed rubber. Since the swivel stud bushing problem above, I have at least learned to not mess with something that is better left alone, rather than try to replace it. Thanks again for your help Mike. Jim
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| kubes40 | -- 05-12-2012 @ 6:08 AM |
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DixeJak, My first response to you was in error. I misunderstood, thinking you were trying to remove the swivel from the sway bar. I apologize for any confusion I may have caused. NOW that I do understand you are trying to remove the pins from the perch bolts, pretty much the same advice applies. You'll have to remove the backing plates. After the plates are removed, pound the center stud through. Then with a small cold chisel, start chipping away at what remains. The stud was wrapped with a waxed cloth and then a thin metal "sh*ll" encapsulated the entire assembly. That cloth comes out fairly easy once the center stud is pushed through. The thin metal sleeve is a bit tougher to remove. One you are this far, you'll easily see what you are up against. Some guys use a hack saw blade (in hand) to cut through that "sh*ll". I use a modified cold chisel. One which I have ground a radius in to that "catches" the sh*ll easily. The new perch pins are a press fit. They should be almost .004" oversize which is a huge press fit. To install these correctly requires a special tool. I can attach a photo of the tool if you desire. If you grind away the outside diameter of the new pin (as many will attest to doing) so it installs easy, you pretty much defeat the purpose of replacing the old one. The new rubbers must be sliced to install upon a sway bar. Originally they were placed on the bar prior to it being formed. Once sliced and installed, I use a bit of 3M Weatherstrip Adhesive within the cut. Once you reinstall the metal "cups" the rubber is compressed enough to serve its intended purpose. Kind regards, Mike Kubarth
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| alanwoodieman | -- 05-12-2012 @ 10:46 AM |
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I just installed new bushings on the shaft- I greased the bushing with sythetic grease and twisted and pushed them on
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| dixiejak | -- 05-12-2012 @ 4:25 PM |
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Hi Mike, Thanks again for your advice on getting the studs for the swivel, out of the perch. I have not been able to get back to the car for a few days, but I was surprised that the new stud will have to be pressed in. The perch studs I bought (from Mac's I believe..I had two orders at the same time from Mac's and C & G) came with plastic bushings that have a flange type shoulder that would seat against the end of the perch hole on both ends. A good friend that is into 33 and 34 NOS parts here in Baton Rouge, said that the plastic bushings makes it a lot easier job to put the new studs in. I suppose I just need to ensure that I have all of the old wax cloth and especially the thin "liner" bushing you described, completely out for the plastic to do a good job. I'll let you know how it all comes together. Back to the old original main rubber bushings on the stabilizer bar we discussed, that are encapsulated at the factory on each end of the mounting brackets, I went ahead out of curiosity and opened up the old sway bars main bushings, and it was still very pliable and shaped in a very sophisticated form, that almost looked as though it was vulcanized into each bracket mount, with the rubber conforming to the shape of the mounting bracket. I can see where the solid bushing I received, if sliced into two pieces, would probably work just as well as you pointed out. Thanks again for your help Mike, and thank you also Alan, but at 84, I'm afraid with even grease, I just don't have the push power to get that little bitty hole in the solid rubber bushing, to go over the twice as large semi flatened hole of the stabilizer bar ends. LOL Jim
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| kubes40 | -- 05-12-2012 @ 5:54 PM |
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Hi Jim, If you are not concerned with authenticity, the perch pins with the nylon bushings will be fine. LOTS easier to install!
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