| grump40 | -- 08-10-2011 @ 10:28 AM |
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What should the rear hubs be torqued to ? Thx
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| ford38v8 | -- 08-10-2011 @ 10:57 AM |
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Grump, Long answer to a short question: Clean the axle taper no burrs allowded. Dry, no lube at all. With a small file or hacksaw, mark the orientation of the cotter pin hole for reference when you atre tightening. Forget about a torque wrench, use a cheater bar and stand on it till you get the castle nut to line up with the cotter pin hole going forward only, don't back off to mate up. Alan
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| 40guy | -- 08-10-2011 @ 3:14 PM |
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I've always did 150 ft.lbs.
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| Stroker | -- 08-10-2011 @ 3:32 PM |
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grump40: Alan's advice is great. The objective is to end up with virtually no movement between the tapered female brake drum inside diameter, and the axle. I would like to add an additional comment: A through inspection of the axle key-way is always a good idea. The area where the key-way ends (towards the center of the car), should be very carefully inspected for any visual cracks. Many times, this area is ignored, but it is where the beginning of failure occurs. A crack in this area will propagate around the axle, and ultimately may cause the tapered end to separate. Since very few of us have aftermarket "safety hubs", the loss of a rear wheel can cause a total loss of the ability to stop if you have hydraulic brakes. Pulling the emergency brake doesn't help, as the differential will negate its' effect on the wheel/brake/axle portion that is un-affected. From personal experience, I will testify that this is not something any EFV8 person (32-48) would want to be confronted with.
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| ford38v8 | -- 08-10-2011 @ 4:12 PM |
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Ditto. The tapered end of my axle is mounted to the Hard Luck Award it got me. Alan
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| CharlieStephens | -- 08-12-2011 @ 12:27 PM |
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Although the old time "safety hubs" are difficult to install the "safety clips" sold by many of the suppliers are relatively easy to install. Don't leave home without them. Charlie Stephens
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