classiclover | -- 04-15-2022 @ 12:32 PM |
Continuing to experience weak starter motor when engine gets up to normal temp and run for extended time. I cleaned all connections from battery to starter motor. Only does it when engine is hot. Any ideas from the experts. Today it acted like I had a dead battery, but after it sat for 10 min, it started. I am puzzled
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kubes40 | -- 04-15-2022 @ 3:54 PM |
I'd tend to look for the simplest solution first. It may very well be the starter itself. As you'd cleaned the connections well, then my next move would be to have the starter tested professionally and rebuilt if necessary. Not turning over hot may indicate loose bushings causing a drag on the armature. Did you clean all of the paint off between the starter and oil pan? Ford masked these adjacent areas for a reason ![]() Has this issue been going on for a while? Getting worse over time? Or did it seemingly happen "overnight"? Mike "Kube" Kubarth
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classiclover | -- 04-15-2022 @ 4:40 PM |
Not a new issue Problem occurs only afterengine is hot
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kubes40 | -- 04-16-2022 @ 5:00 AM |
In that case, I would most definitely eliminate the possibility of a worn starter. When you reinstall it, be certain all paint is removed from the adjacent surfaces - starter end / oil pan. Mike "Kube" Kubarth
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40 Coupe | -- 04-16-2022 @ 5:10 AM |
I would also suggest you put a voltmeter on the battery take a reading cold before starting, warm after running for 10 minutes with the engine running, before trying to start it hot and finally hot while trying to start. Check for any hot battery cable terminals also.
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classiclover | -- 04-16-2022 @ 5:11 AM |
Mike thanks much, I will direct my attention to the starter motor Dale
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fortyford | -- 04-16-2022 @ 6:53 AM |
I have to ask,what condition are your battery cables?Are they large gauge?My 1952 Ford truck did the same thing and I could never understand what was wrong until I discovered the cables were corroded " internally"! I even took my starter off ,had it checked and rebuilt and problem was still there! This message was edited by fortyford on 4-16-22 @ 6:58 AM
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37RAGTOPMAN | -- 04-16-2022 @ 7:30 AM |
if you want a high torque orginal starter rebuilt I would contact CERTIFED AUTO ELECTRIC in OHIO they have new field coils,and rebuild auto electric 440 439 1100 JEFF OR EARL 6vto12v2gmail.com hope this helps 37Ragtopman
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trjford8 | -- 04-16-2022 @ 7:39 AM |
I second the comment about the cables. You need the proper sized cables and check for any corrosion. The braided ground cable is usually the one to cause the problem.
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TomO | -- 04-16-2022 @ 7:53 AM |
Did you complete any of the tests that I asked you to don in your previous post on this problem? If so, what results did you get? https://www.earlyfordv8.org/forum/viewmessages.cfm?Forum=14&Topic=15119&keywords= Tom
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fortyford | -- 04-17-2022 @ 6:48 AM |
I agree with you Tom,it would be nice if the results were posted. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1586932-slow-cranking-flathead-solved.html
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classiclover | -- 04-21-2022 @ 5:21 PM |
Greetings Gents Sorry, I haven't been feeding results back to you. I did all the testing recommended, results didn't indicate any direct source of problem. I did notice the battery was very old, but tested good. Hard to believe it was purchased in Dec of 2005, so I replaced it. While working on this issue I noticed a crack in the coil housing. It runs from top to bottom of the coil. Could the coil be affected by heat and weaken the current to the starter motor? I also replaced the braided cables. I will keep you posted on the results of these changes
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TomO | -- 04-22-2022 @ 7:29 AM |
The coil cracked because it was overheated. This is usually caused by not having a ballast resister in the ignition circuit. Tom
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classiclover | -- 04-22-2022 @ 12:49 PM |
Tom Thks for the input. Can you be more specific on the "Ballast Resistor" recommendation and replacing the coil.
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classiclover | -- 04-27-2022 @ 9:34 AM |
Hi Tom My research shows I have a ballast resistor in ignition circuit. It was replaced a few yrs ago. I have been advised by some local classic guys that these older flatheads do not like the new gas with all the alcohol in it. They say it boils at a very low temp and they have had similar problems. One recommendation, was to start using Efree gas and or install an electric shutoff valve between fuel pump and carb so that you shut off fuel flow before you turn off the engine. He explained the physics of it to me and it made sense. I have pics of it installed. Your thoughts on this
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TomO | -- 04-27-2022 @ 5:22 PM |
If you have the coil on top of the distributor, the ballast resister must be connected. You can check this by connecting your voltmeter between the input to the coil and ground. Turn on the ignition switch and read the meter. It should read around 3volts. If it reads more than 3.5 volts, check the wiring under the dash to make sure that the ballast resister has one wire on each terminal. One wire should be red and the other should be red and black. The radio and heater wires may also be on the same terminal as the re and black wire. I do not understand how any fuel could make the starter crank slowly. I have been using gas with ethanol since the mid 1990's and my starter has only been slow when the brushes were worn. You never did post the results of the tests, you just say that they did not indicate a source of the problem. In order to help you I need to know the readings that you got for each test. Tom
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classiclover | -- 04-28-2022 @ 4:25 AM |
Tom Thks again. I am continuing to learn every day about about my 40. I will get the test results posted on the Ballast resistor. I too was not understanding why any fuel would keep the engine from turning over. Could affect it starting, but still should turn over
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TomO | -- 04-28-2022 @ 6:35 AM |
Please repeat the tests that I asked you to do in your other post and post the results. They will give me a better idea of wht is going on. Tom
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40 Coupe | -- 04-30-2022 @ 8:03 AM |
The cracked coil can also be from a bad rebuilding. If you remove the coil look for electric pencil etchings on the bottom of the coil could indicate it has been rebuilt. If the resistor is jumpered or bypassed electrically or if the ignition switch is left ON it will also destroy the coil. The best place to go for a rebuilt coil is Skip Haney in Punta Gorda Fla. 1-941-637-6698 You want a brown in color coil with Ford script on top not the Black in color. He may have one in his shop. A cracked coil will not effect the starter motor like yours is effected. This message was edited by 40 Coupe on 4-30-22 @ 8:05 AM
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classiclover | -- 04-30-2022 @ 11:34 AM |
Thaanks again to all
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