| RAK402 | -- 05-20-2021 @ 2:47 PM |
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Finished Mechanically! My 1940 Ford Fordor Deluxe is now finished mechanically and will soon have to be taken partially apart cosmetically to be painted. In the meantime, I intend to drive it over the next couple of weeks! It runs beautifully, stops easily, the temperature stays within range, and the battery stays charged. It will get a correct battery after painting. And yes, I know the ahoogha horn is incorrect, but it has been in the car since 1975, so it stays. It will get cleaned up a bit. Over the last five years: New radiator, new brakes, N.O.S. carb, NOS Battery Gauge, repaired Emergency Brake Spring, working vacuum windshield wiper motor (the horrible, useless, electric "upgrade" windshield wiper motor removed), E. J. Whitney Alternator installed, Shocks rebuilt by 5-Points, Steering Gearbox rebuilt by Richard Williams restorations, new tie rod, new drag link, new king pins, new spindle bushings, new Emergency Brake Cable Grommet, new Radius Arm Ball, new Anti-roll bar bushings and swivels, NOS temperature sensors, hidden ammeter installed, new gas tank, new gas gauge sending unit, turn indicators, working radio, new instrument panel plastic (steel re-enforced from the inside to help prevent heat warpage), thermostats modified so that they cannot crawl up the hosed and tip, new radiator hoses, new brake hoses, new fuel pump, new wind-wing rubber seals, new rear quarter window rubber seals, new shock links. This message was edited by RAK402 on 5-20-21 @ 2:51 PM
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| JayChicago | -- 05-20-2021 @ 3:01 PM |
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Looks great. You did a lot of work. Maybe you should now give yourself a break. Enjoy driving it over the summer.
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| RAK402 | -- 07-12-2021 @ 8:23 PM |
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The weather here has been getting hotter, so when it hit 90 degrees I took the Ford out and drove it around locally. In retrospect, with the poor reproduction temperature sensors it was hard to know what was really happening when it appeared to be overheating in the past. I do know that one of the repro sensors was going open at 175 degrees. No sign of over heating now, measure with the gauge, an infrared temp gun, and a thermometer installed in the radiator cap!
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| trjford8 | -- 07-13-2021 @ 6:14 AM |
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That engine compartment looks very nice. Great job.
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| RAK402 | -- 07-13-2021 @ 11:06 AM |
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Thank you!
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| flatcreeker | -- 08-30-2021 @ 11:18 AM |
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Fabulous looking engine. I am the new owner of a '39 Merc and reading a lot of posts for the education. This is also my first flathead. I decided I needed a new toy in my 75th year. I am having a ton of fun! Would love to see photos showing the detail of your under-hood firewall. I would love details of your hidden amp meter. Been considering that and a hidden direct reading oil pressure gauge. Inquiring minds want to know. Best of luck with your fabulous forty! This message was edited by flatcreeker on 8-30-21 @ 11:21 AM
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| same | -- 08-30-2021 @ 5:07 PM |
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RAK402,nice work. more pics,when time allows. tom.
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| RAK402 | -- 08-31-2021 @ 9:13 PM |
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flatcreeker, Thank you for the kind comments sir. For what things should really look like under the hood, the new 1940 Ford Book "It's Ford for '40" is the best reference to date. The author is Mike Kubarth (Kubes40 here on the forum) and I have learned a great deal from his answering my questions here and from the book. Your '39 Mercury will be somewhat different from the Ford of the same year. Regarding the ammeter, I removed the left (Driver's side) ash tray (just the internal part that the actual ashes fall into), made a small bracket, and installed what was sold to me as a 1938 Ford "Loop" style ammeter (I had to cut the edges of the ammeter to fit). The connection lug on the yellow wire coming from the left side of the starter solenoid was cut off at the voltage regulator and the wire extended through the dash grommet, through the loop in the ammeter, then back through the dash grommet where it was reconnected to the lug. From a circuit standpoint, it is exactly where it would have been in a 1939 Standard or earlier Ford (or a 1941 or later Ford). It reads anytime anything is turned on in the electrical system. It tells me if the system is charging or not (which the voltmeter does not do-the voltmeter gives the condition of the battery at the moment). The volt meters were used by Ford in the 1939 Deluxe, and the 1940 Deluxe and Standard, then Ford went back to the ammeter. It is nice to have both to have more information about what is going on with the battery/charging system. In this video, I turn the parking lights on, then the headlights, then back to the parking lights, then off. When the engine is running, is shows the rate at which the battery is being charged. When the ash tray is closed, you cannot tell that non-stock ammeter is there. https://youtu.be/0aV4c-E0ymw same/tom, Thank you too! I will take some more photos when I get a bit further sir. I still have not taken it apart cosmetically to get it painted. This message was edited by RAK402 on 8-31-21 @ 9:32 PM
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