| tweetsmith01 | -- 05-17-2021 @ 5:15 PM |
|
kube, the oil level in a 40 with oil filter takes 5 quts was their a different dipstick or just mark mine at net location thanks for any syggestions
|
|
| kubes40 | -- 05-18-2021 @ 6:59 AM |
|
One dipstick for the 85 / 100 HP engines. There's a good chance yours has been replaced through the past years with an incorrect stick. I'd suggest you change the oil, add you five quarts and let it settle. Then, mark the stick. Do you have the dense felt pad (dust seal) directly below the stick washer? That is nearly always missing. Mike "Kube" Kubarth
|
|
| tweetsmith01 | -- 05-18-2021 @ 5:51 PM |
|
kube, my oil stick shows full with 4 qts but i just connected the oil d filter that was disconnect so ill just remark the stick and no i do not have a felt seal any available anywhere that you would know thank you
|
|
| kubes40 | -- 05-19-2021 @ 4:58 AM |
|
check your private message Mike "Kube" Kubarth
|
|
| Hillfarmer | -- 05-21-2021 @ 8:23 AM |
|
Is in normal for the oil filter to drain back into the crankcase when the engine is off on a 1940?
|
|
| TomO | -- 05-21-2021 @ 8:29 AM |
|
It is not normal for the oil in the filter to drain back into the crankcase when the engine is off. Tom
|
|
| tweetsmith01 | -- 05-21-2021 @ 6:42 PM |
|
hi tom , i read your post and am wondering what would stop the oil filter from draining back to crankase
|
|
| TomO | -- 05-22-2021 @ 7:34 AM |
|
The filter outlet is higher than the block outlet that feeds the inlet. See drawing. Tom
|
|
| tweetsmith01 | -- 05-22-2021 @ 12:05 PM |
|
tom im trying to learn how this works just connected it the feed to the filter comes from rear of block to about 3in up on the filter canister and the return from the filter goes out the bottom into side of oil pan do i have this filter connected correctly
|
|
| kubes40 | -- 05-23-2021 @ 6:26 AM |
|
Tweets, much of the oil, but not all, will drain back in to the engine. You do have it correctly plumbed. Mike "Kube" Kubarth
|
|
| TomO | -- 05-23-2021 @ 9:47 AM |
|
The way that you have it connected, more oil will drain than the way the drawing that I posted shows. Either way works and the canister will fill when you start the engine. It is not like a full flow filter, where the filter must be full in order to have correct oil pressure. If you are concerned about losing points on the concourse, your drain to the side of the pan is incorrect for a 1940 car. Tom
|
|
| pech33 | -- 05-23-2021 @ 4:57 PM |
|
My oil filter has outlet at the bottom of the filter hooked up to the oil pressure sending unit. The side outlet goes across the intake and dumps into the passenger side of the breather tube through the bolt hole. Maybe that's why it drips all the time at the breather tube. According to the drawing "A" that was how it was originally hooked up and Ford gave a new directive? Is that right? Mine is obviously wrong. This message was edited by pech33 on 5-23-21 @ 5:15 PM
|
|
| tweetsmith01 | -- 05-23-2021 @ 6:15 PM |
|
thanks
|
|
| kubes40 | -- 05-24-2021 @ 5:35 AM |
|
TomO is correct in that your return line, routed to the oil pan, is not correct for 1940. `1941 had a separate boss towards the front of the pan for the return line. 1942 - 1948 had the threaded inlet integral of the dipstick boss. Mike "Kube" Kubarth
|
|
| TomO | -- 05-24-2021 @ 8:23 AM |
|
Pech 33, Your connections are incorrect. The inlet to the filter is at the side of the filter and the outlet is at the bottom. The outlet should be connected to the hollow stud on the left (drivers)side of the fuel pump. Connecting the outlet to a breather stand bolt will result in a leak. Tom
|
|
| RAK402 | -- 05-24-2021 @ 8:48 AM |
|
There are two correct routings of the return line for 1940. The return line on mine connects to a banjo fitting, then through a hollow bolt on the right side of the distributor (I think this is the earlier routing). This is the routing per the diagram that TomO supplied in an earlier post on this thread. You can see the return line routed through a clip under the mounting lug/nut for the generator (alternator, in this case). This message was edited by RAK402 on 5-24-21 @ 8:51 AM
|
|
| kubes40 | -- 05-25-2021 @ 5:15 AM |
|
RAK, You are describing the late routing. If I recall, that started around April, 1940. Mike "Kube" Kubarth
|
|
| RAK402 | -- 05-25-2021 @ 9:48 AM |
|
I stand corrected sir. Thank you.
|
|
| pech33 | -- 05-25-2021 @ 10:33 AM |
|
My car was built June 3-27, 1940. The side oil hose from the filter goes to the left bolt of the fuel pump, the lower outlet goes to the oil sending unit. Anyone know if I remove the hollow bolt from the oil fill tube if it will work at the distributor? If not, is there a source for that hollow bolt? Looks like the hose will require a 90 degree fitting to avoid a big loop. I have oil seeping from the oil fill tube and have a gasket on the way.
|
|
| RAK402 | -- 05-25-2021 @ 9:11 PM |
|
The hollow bolt for the distributor has a hole drilled up through the center which intersects a hole drilled parallel to the head (sort of like a "T"). The bolt passes through a "banjo" fitting attached to the hose at the right side of the distributor. At least this is how mine is. I don't know if either of the hollow bolts are available or reproduced (my father made the one that is presently in the car in the mid to late 1970's). We had a devil of a time finding anyone with the knowledge about what the hosed with like, how they were connected, routed etc. Mike's book didn't exist back then (it certainly would have been helpful-it still is now).
|
|
| kubes40 | -- 05-26-2021 @ 5:48 AM |
|
Pech, You have the line (incorrectly) going to the right side of the pump stand. Also, it appears you do not have the correct fitting at that point. That may, just may be why you have issues with the the oil leaking. Mike "Kube" Kubarth
|
|
| pech33 | -- 05-26-2021 @ 7:35 AM |
|
It appears that Jegs has several banjo fitting that will work. Next step will be to determine that passenger side of distributor bolt hole is indeed open to the crankcase. I assume it is, but . . .
|
|
| TomO | -- 05-26-2021 @ 5:55 PM |
|
I just went out to my garage and checked the 2 fuel pump stand that I have. the bolt holes on both sides are open to the fill area. Pech, you would probably better off to find the right stud and fitting for the fuel pump stand and make sure that the bolt hole is open to the oil fill area. When I had a filter on my car, I always had a small leak at the distributor bolt and it was a pain in the neck to r&r the distributor. The copper crush washers on both sides of the banjo fitting could only be used once, so each time you did a removal of the distributor, you had to replace the odd sized washers. Another reason to do this is to make your car Concourse correct. You should also reverse the connections at the filter canister. The input for the filter is on the side and comes from under the oil pressure sending unit. The outlet is at the bottom of the canister and goes either to the fuel pump stand or the distributor bolt. The story that I heard for the reason Ford made the change is: Many mechanics were installing the hollow stud into the fuel pump stand mounting instead of the fuel pump mounting resulting in no oil flow or oil coming out of the filter top because the pump stand studs go into a blind hole. The distributor bolt goes through the timing gear cover, so the hollow bolt would allow the oil to drain into the oil pan. Tom
|
|
| tweetsmith01 | -- 05-27-2021 @ 4:14 PM |
|
kube i recieved your dipstick seal today thank you for you trouble where do you find something like that just in case i ever need another
|
|
| kubes40 | -- 05-28-2021 @ 5:35 AM |
|
I had a little pack of them from a dealer I'd cleaned out, yikes, back in the late 70's as I recall. Mike "Kube" Kubarth
|
|
| EFV-8 Club Forum : | https://www.earlyfordv8.org/forum |
| Topic: | https://www.earlyfordv8.org/forum/viewmessages.cfm?Forum=14&Topic=14840 |