| fortyford | -- 11-19-2017 @ 8:21 AM |
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My headlights to me seem like they are a little dim at night on my 40.It is completely stock system with 6 volt.I checked voltage at pigtails for bulbs with both bulbs out,engine running very fast and I am getting about 6.25 volts at both headlight pigtails.Is this about normal or do I have something going on?I did clean the ground wire on both buckets good.I checked voltage with one headlight burning and I only get about 4.50 volts at the other headlight pigtail. This message was edited by fortyford on 11-19-17 @ 4:57 PM
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| kubes40 | -- 11-19-2017 @ 11:12 AM |
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First and foremost I'd suggest running a "jumper" ground to a very clean (IE No [paint) to a point on EACH bucket to a paint on the car frame. See if the glow becomes noticeably brighter. If it does, you have a poor ground currently. Another place to ALWAYS check are each and every butt connector. They are poor by design and especially so after years of being exposed to the environment. Typically, I solder those connections to assure the best contact possible. Mike "Kube" Kubarth
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| ford38v8 | -- 11-19-2017 @ 11:19 AM |
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I'm not sure where you were taking the readings from, but no matter, I'll take it from step one: The ground, bucket to fender, doesn't stop there. You must also ground fender to frame. Some guys bypass both, running a concealed ground wire from socket directly to frame. Sounds like your harness and bullets are in good shape, but many also solder the bullets. This won't apply to you, as you have sealed beam headlines, but most guys forget that smog darkens the inside of reflectors, which can be cleaned easilly but for the hassle of removal/replacement. White paint or shiny foil on the inside of buckets also helps a great deal, for those without sealed beam, and also, 50-35 bulbs are available to replace the 35-35 bulbs. This last hint will improve everyone's headlites: Run a heavy power lead directly from the solenoid to a pair of relays, one serving low beam, the other serving high beam. Locate these relays up front, concealed near the radiator. Alan
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| fortyford | -- 11-19-2017 @ 11:49 AM |
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I checked the ground with a good jumper ground and got no change.I think I may have found at least part of the problem.With lights on I "jiggled" the dimmer switch and headlights got brighter.I guess maybe it would pay to replaced the dimmer switch?
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| ford38v8 | -- 11-19-2017 @ 12:18 PM |
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Ah, yes! That's what we forgot! Alan
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| fortyford | -- 11-19-2017 @ 12:52 PM |
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The headlights may need adjusted also,but what would be my chances of finding someone that can set them?Would most shops have a way to set them correctly?One other question.Driving at 55mph with lights on my battery gauge is readig on the line between red and orange .Can someone tell me if this is normal? This message was edited by fortyford on 11-19-17 @ 4:10 PM
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| TomO | -- 11-19-2017 @ 5:01 PM |
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You may not have to replace the dimmer switch, it may just need to be used. Your voltage regulator may not be set correctly, causing the battery gauge to read between the red and the orange. Connect your voltmeter between the BAT terminal of the voltage regulator and ground, bring the engine speed upt about 1,500 rpms and read the meter. it should read between 7.2v-7.4v. Your owners manual give instructions on setting the aim of the head lights. You can do it yourself or take the instructions to a competent mechanic. Tom
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