| sarahcecelia | -- 07-16-2017 @ 2:50 PM |
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I have the filter and several cartridges. I need the flex lines and all the other hardware to mount it and hook it up. Does anybody have it or know where I can get it? I can probably have the flex lines made if I can't find them, but would still would need the other items. Regards, Steve Lee
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| ken ct. | -- 07-16-2017 @ 3:36 PM |
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If you cant route the return line to a fitting on the oil pan , your wasting your time an $$.You will have leaks at the fuel pump stand and or leaks at the dist bolt. The flex lines are very hard to get someone to make them ,the proper fittings on them are almost non-existent. OMO ken ct
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| 40 Coupe | -- 07-16-2017 @ 4:52 PM |
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AC filter or Fram???
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| sarahcecelia | -- 07-16-2017 @ 7:24 PM |
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"Carpenter Ford" filters, like I use on my two 1950's. Why leaks at the distributor bolt, and the fuel pump stand? My 1950's both have filters on them and they don't leak. Is there aproblem with the 40's that I don't know about? I have a place nearby that can, and will, make the flex lines, that's their business. I had them make a flex line for a 1951 Ford Victoria that I had. I know those filters are not "Full Flow,"and only filter a small portion of the oil, But the canister is like "New" and came with the car, and they do filter some of the oil, and every little bit helps. It also looks impressive on the motor when the car is shown. Regards, Steve Lee
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| ford38v8 | -- 07-16-2017 @ 8:35 PM |
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Steve, your "50's both have filters on them and they don't leak". They also have the filtered oil return to the oil pan dipstick boss. Your question specified a 1940 Ford, which has no such oil pan dipstick return option, unless your engine has a non stock oil pan. The special banjo bolt return to the fuel pump tower or to the distributor mount is as hard to find as hens teeth. Should you find one, good luck with sealing it properly to prevent a leak, and by the way, that's not the only reason it was upgraded to the oil pan return. For your 1940, the only two original returns were those with the banjo bolt, but if you intend to have the car point judged, the oil pan return would cost only a minor hit, and is the most reliable and trouble free of the three options. Alan This message was edited by ford38v8 on 7-16-17 @ 8:38 PM
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| ken ct. | -- 07-16-2017 @ 9:32 PM |
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As Alan said tought to seal the leaks. Also all banjo bolts ive seen are 1/8" PT.Dist and fuel pump bolts are course thread, threads will not match. You have to modify a stock hardware store bolt by drilling a 1/16 hole length wise almost to the bottom of the head then drill a cross ways hole up under the head roughtly 1/16" under the head. Ive made a few and its not easy and broken many a drill bit doing this.Buy the cheapest and softest bolt in the store. Good luck. ken ct. Use copper washers on both sides of the banjo.
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| kubes40 | -- 07-17-2017 @ 6:44 AM |
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Steve, I feel Alan was nearly on target in his reply. Respectfully, I do disagree only in part to what he'd offered. There were two quite unique return lines in 1940. One, the earliest design was utilized to nearly May, 1940. It routed the return line to a special fitting that replaced the bolt that held the fuel pump to the stand. That special fitting is a tough one to find these days. Leaks were not the concern with this design. Rather, higher oil consumption was - most often exacerbated by a mechanic installing the return (improperly) by replacing the stud / nut that held the FP stand to the intake. The later and final design routed the return line to a timing gear cover bolt. The "banjo" fitting described by Alan required a special "hollow" both that replaced a cover bolt. With the installation of a thin brass flat washer on each side of the banjo fitting, leaks were unlikely. I have yet to experience a leak in any of my installations. The second design hose with integral banjo fitting, special bolt and washers (kit) are frequently available on eBay. If you plan on having your car judged, be aware of the dates these designs were implemented. A decent judge will be aware of them and should make a deduction if the design does coincide with the build date. Hoses with correct fittings can be made up at any quality hydraulic hose service. They have the correct fittings but be forewarned, if concourse correct is your thing, you will be disappointed as those fittings are also tough to find and won't be had at a modern "store". Within another (separate) post of yours, it appears you have a later "59" series engine. All oil pans, 1941 - 1948 had a return fitting integral of the oil pan. 1941 pans had a fitting near the left - front of the pan. 1942 - 48 had the fitting integral of the dip stick tube boss. If you have the later pan in your '40, I'd suggest you take advantage of that pan fitting. Mike "Kube" Kubarth
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| kubes40 | -- 07-17-2017 @ 6:45 AM |
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40coupe, Fram supplied the oil filter assemblies to Ford in 1940. Mike "Kube" Kubarth
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| ford38v8 | -- 07-17-2017 @ 10:11 AM |
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Mike, You say you disagree with me on one point, but I don't see it. What'd I get wrong? If you mean about leaks, I did consider and discounted the full explanation of the meaning as not essential: The removal and replacement of those bolts for service of related components makes for a messy engine compartment, improper placement of the gaskets, etc., a slight twist of the hose may loosen the bolt, and the introduction of excessive oil mist to the blowby tube at the pump bolt. To be a bit sarcastic, those reasons may no have been among your experiences on your trailer queens! Alan
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| kubes40 | -- 07-17-2017 @ 12:21 PM |
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Hi ya Alan, My disagreement with you was based on: 1) your statement that both designs of return lines were "banjo" type. That is not true. 2) Your statement that the banjo lines are rare. The banjo lines are often offered on eBay. I see them at least once or twice a month. I suppose this is subjective as once or twice a month may equate to "rare" to some folks. 3) My experience with either of the routings has been positive - no leaks. Of course, that's subjective as others may have different results. Mike "Kube" Kubarth
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| Stroker | -- 07-17-2017 @ 1:05 PM |
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A few "thoughts" 1. I have an "incorrect" Fram-type oil filter on my 38. It will "stay on that motor", as long as I own the car, and it's been on the car since about 1940. 2. I only buy Wix filters, as I don't particularly like the cheap construction found in today's Frams. 3. If you have the "banjo-style" return line fitting, anytime you loosen them you need to "anneal" the copper gaskets, as they become "tempered" during the engines repetitive heat cycling. This can be easily done by threading them on a piece of wire, heating them to a "dull orange" heat with a propane torch and then quenching them in water. This technique also applies to brake line banjo fittings if you don't have new gaskets. 4. Filters for those Fram-style oil filter canisters readily available from most Farm supply stores, as all Ford 9N,2N,and 9N tractors used the same canister and element. 5. Be particularly careful when installing the element so that the filter "stand", and gaskets are properly positioned. When installing the top cover gasket, turn the lid of the canister clockwise as you begin to tighten the center bolt. This will ensure that the gasket is properly seated in it's peripheral groove.
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| sarahcecelia | -- 07-17-2017 @ 2:26 PM |
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I'll look it over on mine to see just what I have. You say a Fram filter, i'm thinking my 1950 Ford filters will work because the filter container I have came wth the car, but looks very similar to my '50 Ford unit.Is that so, or are they different? Regards, Steve Lee
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