| jimoathome | -- 02-21-2017 @ 2:22 PM |
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I have an all original 1940 Custom Deluxe. I understand that: 1. I can install a backup electric fuel pump and filter (I've seen some combined units) near the gas tank, using the existing fuel line, 2. That no changes need be made to the existing mechanical fuel pump, or anything else, and 3. That everything will work fine, whether or not the electric pump is turned on. If this is correct, what P.S.I. rating should I be looking for in the electric pump? Any recommendations as to a specific electric pump model?
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| ken ct. | -- 02-21-2017 @ 3:35 PM |
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Your just asking for something to go wrong. Correctly rebuilt fuel pumps work just fine. omo ken ct.
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| kubes40 | -- 02-21-2017 @ 6:52 PM |
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Well, it depends on the electric pump. You must get a low volume pump to start with. Around 2 1/2# maximum. Some will allow the mechanical pump to draw fuel through them while others will not. So, you must get one that will allow fuel to be drawn through it. Running both pumps may overwhelm the needle / seat within the carburetor and cause flooding. This of course could be avoided by adding a fuel pressure regulator. My .02ยข? Get your ignition circuit (distributor & coil) operating correctly and get a properly rebuilt fuel pump installed. Then, there should be no need for a back up electric pump. The only guy I would suggest to rebuild your pump is Charlie. If you'd like his contact information, let me know. He is great guy and does great work. And, he actually tests his rebuilds prior to shipping.
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| Stroker | -- 02-22-2017 @ 7:31 AM |
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Also, consider sending your pump to: Ken Isidor. PM me for Ken's address. He does magnificent work; using Ethanol-compatible materials. I've used a Bendix pump in the past, but ONLY because my 4-carb intake precluded using the factory pump due to clearance-issues.. About the only "reason" to use an electric pump is if you run the car out of gas, and wish to "speed-up" the re-start without having to prime the engine.
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| kubes40 | -- 02-22-2017 @ 9:33 AM |
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Stroker, With all due respect, I had purchased five pumps outright from the aforementioned person to find three did not operate. I was told they had been tested then told by the very same fellow he had no way to test them. Not sure what I was supposed to believe at that point. They were painted nicely - no argument there. My purchase was a few years back and perhaps the fellow has changed his methods of operation. However, for me, five pumps at $150 each and only two operated makes me apprehensive to be a repeat customer. Charlie does in fact test them all and installs diaphragms that are alcohol resistant.
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| TomO | -- 02-22-2017 @ 10:33 AM |
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I have to add to the consensus that an electric pump is not necessary and can make it difficult to prime the carburetor if the pump fails. Make sure that all of your connections on the lines from the tank to the carburetor are tight so that there are no vacuum leaks, your push rod is not worn and the pump is in good condition. Doing these things will mean that the pump will prime itself in 15-30 seconds. A properly rebuilt carburetor will also help getting the car started after sitting for a couple of weeks. Tom
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| kubes40 | -- 02-22-2017 @ 10:44 AM |
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Tom has made some VERY valid points that should not be ignored. Ford had soldered the ferrules to the fuel lines for a reason. I do that whenever a line is removed and / or replaced. In my opinion, any area that may cause a vacuum leak is an area to be properly addressed.
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| len47merc | -- 02-22-2017 @ 10:49 AM |
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jimoathome - just curious - why do you feel the need, assuming you do, to install a 'back-up' electric fuel pump? Everyone - and this is not an overstatement on my part - everyone I've ever been associated with that went this route did so to correct some problem or concern that could have - and IMHO I'll say should have - been addressed by ensuring the fuel delivery (tank, cap, lines - steel & flex, fuel pump & carb) and ignition systems were in peak operating condition. And everyone that did install one realized some unforeseen pitfall that again could have been avoided by going through these issues as well - the back-up electric fuel pump simply masked the real issue/concern for a while. And when they did realize the unforeseen pitfall - it was NEVER at a good time. My bugbear that had me thinking about this early on was that a less-than-optimally-tightened fuel pump bowl can leak air and not fuel. Once I learned on this Forum to troubleshoot that - and found it was indeed the root cause of the problem I was having - I found it corrected other issues I was having that I'd accepted as 'normal'. That issue erroneously accepted as normal was that fuel would drain back into the tank after the car sat for 8-12 weeks and it would take 3 rounds of 10 seconds starting separated by 30 seconds of starter cool-down before the fuel would get back to the carb and the car would start. Just recently I took the '47 out of winter storage and after 3 months sitting in the garage the filter and fuel pump bowl were both still full of fuel and the car cranked on about the 4th-5th roll over of the engine. Bada-boom-bada-bing. Avoid the pitfalls - fix the real problem or concern first. Then for peace of mind if you want to go that route have at it, but heed kubes40 comment about other issues arising. For me my peace of mind comes only in the form of a back-up fuel pump and flex line kept in the spares box in the trunk. And a back-up rebuilt carb and other ignition components when on long tours. Steve
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| ford38v8 | -- 02-22-2017 @ 4:29 PM |
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Jimoathome, Now that you've had all the naysayers advice, I'll chime in with something you want to hear. Yes, the EFV8CA Judging Standards Committee has listened to all the stories pro and con, and after careful deliberation, they have made a very rare change in Concourse standards, to allow an electric fuel pump on cars to be point judged, without drawing a point deduction. Personally, I believe that says a whole lot in support of the occasional need for an electric pump. Don't misunderstand me, the advice the others have given is excellent, and in most cases will keep you tooling down the highway just fine. However, you and I know that conditions are not always optimum, making an electric pump almost an automatic necessity for use as a standby, just as smart as carrying tools and spare parts. What you need: A pump that has a flow through feature, a fuel pressure regulator, and a fuel filter. The filter must be installed before the pump, the regulator after the pump, to be set at 2 1/2 lbs. As a part time helper system, it should be wired with a spring loaded toggle switch, for safety. For use as a full time pump, I would side with those who say it is not needed. Alan This message was edited by ford38v8 on 2-22-17 @ 4:29 PM
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| kenburke | -- 04-01-2017 @ 3:23 PM |
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Hi Mike, What would be the up and down travel for the fuel pump rod operating off of the cam? Thanks, p.s. I want an autographed copy.
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| TomO | -- 04-03-2017 @ 8:09 AM |
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The travel is approximately 3/8". If you are having fuel delivery problems, please start a new thread. Tom
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